Fig. 9.15. Rear brake cylinder components
1. Cylinder; 2. Piston; 3. Piston seal; 4. Spring; 5. Plunger; 6. Rubber protective cover; 7. Bleed nipple; 8. Dust cap.
Fig. 9.16. Sectional view of rear brake cylinder
1. Cylinder; 2. Piston; 3. Plunger; 4. Rubber protective cover; 5. Piston seal; 6. Spring; 7. Bleed nipple; 8. Dust cap.
Note: Before you begin, please refer to the Note given at the beginning Chapters 9, and the Warning given at the beginning Chapters 21 (regarding asbestos dust).
Removal
1. Remove the brake drum (see Chapter 20).
2. Remove the brake pads (paragraphs 10-14 of Chapter 21).
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3. Minimize fluid loss by removing the master cylinder reservoir cap and re-tightening it with a piece of polyethylene placed under the cap (do not damage the level sensor). This will create a tight seal and prevent fluid from escaping. Alternatively, clamp the hose with a clamp, vice or similar tool, or plug the metal brake pipe immediately after separating it from the cylinder (see Chapter 10). Unscrew the bleed nipple and plug both holes of the cylinder; work very carefully to prevent foreign particles from entering the system.
4. Remove the cylinder from the drum brake support shield (see photo).

Bulkhead
Note: Before you start overhauling the cylinder, check the availability of the necessary components and their prices, compare them with the price of a new or already rebuilt cylinder in a workshop, and only then decide whether overhaul is advisable.
5. Remove the wheel cylinder and clean it completely.
6. Clamp the brake cylinder in a vice with soft-grip jaws, then remove the rubber protective caps and plungers. Remove the piston assemblies and spring.
7. Clean all components thoroughly. Use only methyl or isopropyl alcohol, or clean brake fluid. Never use mineral solvents such as gasoline or kerosene for this purpose - they will damage the rubber components of the brake hydraulic system. Dry the components using compressed air or a clean, dense (lint-free) cloth.
8. Inspect all components and replace any that are worn or damaged. Pay particular attention to the cylinder bore and pistons - the complete cylinder assembly should be replaced if they are scratched, worn or corroded. If there is any doubt about the condition of the assembly or any of its components, replace them accordingly. Ensure that the cylinder inlet and bleeder port are not clogged.
9. If the caliper is suitable for further use, purchase the components required for its assembly. Be sure to replace all rubber seals, cuffs and covers, as well as the dust cap - they should not be reused.
10. Soak the pistons and new seals in clean brake fluid. Lubricate the inner walls of the cylinder with clean fluid.
11. Install the new seals into the piston grooves without using any tools. Make sure that all components are installed in the correct order and orientation.
12. Insert the pistons into the caliper cylinder using a twisting motion to prevent them from getting stuck due to the sealing lips. Before installing the new rubber protective caps and plungers, apply a small amount of rubber component lubricant to each of the pistons.
13. Install the wheel cylinder.
Installation
14. Install in the reverse order of removal, paying attention to the following:
- a) Tighten the cylinder mounting bolts to the specified tightening torque Specifications.
- b) Install the bleed nipple, then connect the metal brake pipe to the cylinder (see Chapter 10) and install the brake shoes and drum (Chapters 21 and 20).
- c) Bleed the system (see Chapter 9), then check its joints for leaks by asking an assistant to press the brake pedal all the way down. Rinse off any spilled fluid and recheck the system for leaks.
